Angela's Second Fitting

In getting ready for her fitting, I first (after cutting out my pattern) flat line the silk to the coutil ( a fancy fabric to help control shape in corset work) This is done by pinning and sewing each section one at a time.
I then get to pin all my corset panels together and sew them up!
Next I control all my seams by using a herringbone stitch (all done by hand) to help make the seams lie flat. This is very important, as it prevents any seams from folding funny or moving. You'll find it is only done in couture work and not much in ready to wear gowns.

I didn't get to taking any pictures of her in the gown this fitting. (I did make an effort to pull out my camera though!) But we didn't have to make many adjustments to the fit. Just an adjustment on the shape of the sleeve. I've also pinned out where I am doing to place the decorative pleats.

Featured!

My 1920's inspired gown, I draped in the Cecile Pelous draping workshop is featured today on Utah Bride Blog! Scroll to a few posts down to see all the images from our shoot.

The gown is made from silk chiffon with silver pinstripes, it features a bias cut bodice and skirt that moves like a dream. Accenting the dress is a delicate rhinestone trim along the sleeves, waist and neckline.

Thanks for the wonderful post UBB!

I also highly recommend Camilla Binks photography and Allure Image. They are such an amazing team to work with! Also the amazing people at Cucina Nassi, they were so great to have us come and shoot there. The building is beautiful, spacious and would be a wonderful place to host your reception. I wish I did!

Click HERE to see the UBB post.

Angela's First Fitting

I got to have my first fitting with Angela saturday. She is the bride who I am documenting the custom design process. I hope it will be an insite to those looking to have a custom gown made; It's quite the process and when you want something truly unique, it's worth it. I took about a million measurements of Angela. And to my pleasure I found her measurements were almost the same size as my dress form! Yay! I found the style of corset top she wanted was easier to drape, than to draft a pattern. I use cotton muslin to drape and a special tape to map out my design lines. I then transfer it to paper and make a pattern.
I then cut out the pattern in muslin and this becomes my mock-up. This is where I start taking in the excess, by pinning and shaping the mock-up to Angela's body. I use my pin markings to transfer any adjustments to my pattern. This seams like a lot of extra work. But it is worth it as it saves me from having to waste any fabric
Re-shaping the neckline. We also shortened her sleeves a good deal. They will now hit right above the elbow.
After working on her skirt pattern this week, I decided I hated my frist draft of it. So the day before her fitting I re-designed it. Here I'm showing her the new drape of her skirt. Since I re-did it, I didn't get a chance to finish it before the fitting. It's now more of vintage full ball-gown skirt, much better from the funny A-line one I had earlier. Both of us are now very happy with it!

Angela's fabric also came in this last week. It is the most beautiful shade of peachy pink. I'm so excited to use it!

The Process....

So while I am waiting to get the website going. I thought it might be a good idea to document the process of a custom wedding gown.

So first things first! The sketch; we'll meet one on one and the bride brings in photos of dress elements she likes. For instance; we will combine a sleeve off one dress, to the bodice of another and use the skirt shape from another. This way the bride gets all the elements she loves in one gown.

Here is the sketch of my next project! Each fitting I have with the bride I will post pictures so you can see the process start to finish!

Angela is getting married in May and was inspired by a blush Anne Barge gown. While I am willing to include some elements and ideas from another designer, I will never fully knock off another designer's work.

What Angela loved most about the gown was the pin tuck and pleat details, so what we decided to do, to create the same old world feel was to use a corset base. I suggested a raglan style sleeve to help keep the soft feminine feel Angela was attracted to.

The one detail Angela was dead set on carrying over was the pointed three layered pleat in front. (Which is the only element from the gown we are carrying over) Angela wanted more pleats so we are adding some on the cuff of the sleeve.

Who doesn't like a little bling? I'm so excited to apply rhinestone trim along the dropped waist and rhinestone buttons down the back and on the slit of the sleeve.

The skirt will be a full gathered ball gown skirt with a soft layer of blush english net over the blush silk dupioni. Angela's other dead-set detail...pockets!

Silk Ribbon Embroidery Give-a-way!!

I've teamed up with an awesome new LDS wedding planning website. weddingslds.com and I am participating in a free custom (your choice of colors and flowers) silk ribbon embroidery sash give-a-way on facebook!

Check out their facebook page to enter this contest! Winner is going to be chosen on Valentine's day, so enter now!

Cucina Nassi photo shoot!!!

Stunning huh? The last two are my FAV. I had a blast shooting with the team!

Photography: Camilla Binks

Model: Amber Lynn Fillerup

Gown: Me! Mary Rino for Lily Bride Designs

Hair Piece: Andrea Hansen of Pretty Macabre

Hair: Ashley Forbes of Allure Image

Make-up: Brianna Bartholomew of Allure Image